RolexSubmariner

The last Rolex Submariner to carry the 100m depth rating, the 5508 represents a pivotal point in the model’s history. It carries all the charm of the early Submariners with its unprotected crown, gilt dial, and radium lume, and yet the dial layout and squared numbers in the bezel set a style that is still in evidence today. The dial is gilt, meaning that a reverse-printing technique is used, and the markings are actually the underlying brass disk showing through the black coating. This imparts a warm glow to the lettering and ensures the printing will not fade or wear off. The depth rating was added later in the 5508’s development and here it has been printed in white with the meters first.

The 6 o’clock marker has the distinctive ‘Exclamation Point’ luminous material. While the dial material is the original radium, it is believed that the exclamation mark is the first official sign used by Rolex on “Swiss” radium dials to show that the radiation has been adapted to new Atomic Energy Commission regulations at the end of the 1950s. The exclamation point appears from 1962 onwards meaning that this dial has lower emissions. The luminous material is remarkably well preserved on both hands and dial and their matching colour is a further indication of originality.

The seller has had the watch tested to verify the nature and originality of the luminous material. The watch dial contains radium verified with a Geiger Muller Counter GMC-320 which measured the Gamma radiation emitted by the Dial. This instrument will detect both gamma and beta radiation if present but only radium will register as tritium will only emit low energy beta particles which do not penetrate the body/glass of the watch. The watch registered a dose of 13uSv/h with the sensing element positioned right against the watch glass front. At two inches the level dropped to 3uSv/h this is a 26mSv annual dose – similar to figures generally quoted for radium dial watches. Both Tritium and Radium watches have a patina associated with the use of luminous paint on the dial of watches it is generally not possible to distinguish by appearance only. If the dial contained Tritium nothing would be detected. Tritium does not emit Gamma Radiation, only Beta particles that do not penetrate the watch body or glass.

Finding a 5508 with an original bracelet is rare and adds to the value significantly. The riveted ‘expanding’ Gay Freres stainless steel bracelets that accompanied these watches wore out quickly and were often replaced. The bracelet has no model number stamped on it, indicating that it was produced before 1962, this ties in perfectly with the production date of the watch. The presence of the domed, protruding rivets confirms this as a Swiss-produced bracelet rather than a cheaper American production variant. The ‘80’ stamped bracelet end-pieces are also correct for this model.

The movement is calibre 1530 a more reliable upgrade that the 5508 Submariner ushered in, offering 44hrs power reserve. The case back is stamped for the second quarter of 1962.

The watch is offered by the family of the original purchaser. The watch is in good original condition. The plexiglass has scratches and scuffs. The dial is very well preserved with light spotting marks and some crazing as often seen on radium dials. The lume plots are even, full, and uniformly coloured. The luminous material of the hands is also evenly coloured and unbroken. The bezel has the remains of the original lume pip present, with a few minor chips to the black coating between 12 and 1. The case has the marks dents and scratches commensurate with age and use. It has had some polishing in its lifetime but the bevel lines on the lugs can still be seen.

The bracelet has scratches and a heavier dent on the first link above 12 o’clock. The clasp is scratched but functions correctly and securely. The case back has some light marks. On the underside of the lugs are what appear to be scratched watchmaker marks, but their purpose or meaning is unclear. The movement is running, shows tarnish commensurate with age and would benefit from a clean and service. The case back gasket is absent. The inner surface of the case back shows watchmaker marks for 1977. There is no box or papers offered with the sale but a highly collectable Rolex anchor marked for 100m accompanies the watch.

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