Weekly Wind Down | Sales Highlights including watches from Tudor & Rolex

In the context of Rolex’s modern business practices, it’s crazy to think that the name and many of the parts from its iconic dive watch were previously shared with its sister company Tudor. From the 1950s, all the way up to the ‘90s, the name ‘Submariner’ was proudly printed on watches from the Crown’s budget-friendly sub-brand. In fact, it’s only been in the last two decades that some real distance has developed between the two. 

This recently sold Tudor Submariner is a reference 79090, a model introduced in 1989 to replace the earlier ‘no-date’ version. Available in blue or black, the dial proudly displays the Submariner script at 6 o’clock and incorporates the famous ‘Mercedes’ hands. There’s a Rolex-stamped trip-lock crown aiding waterproofness and further branding from the Crown on the case back. 

Adding to its appeal is the acrylic crystal which delivers a nice vintage aesthetic and is unavailable on Rolex Submariners of the same age which had switched over to the more scratch-resistant sapphire. 

This is a watch that delivers all of the looks and ergonomics of Rolex’s equivalent with very little compromises. Sure, it’s got an ETA movement, but the reliability and robustness of these calibres has been well proven over the years. With a hammer price under £3,000, it’s clear the best value Submariners don’t have Rolex on the dial. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £2,600

If you like the Tudor, but you just need to see that coronet on the dial, then a neo-vintage reference 16610 is the perfect option. Not only are they significantly cheaper than buying brand new, but they also offer the perfect combination of vintage looks and modern build quality. 

For collectors who appreciate more classical styling, the 16610 allows the wearer to tap into that aesthetic without any of the pitfalls of owning something antiquated. With a quick service and seal change, you could happily strap this on the wrist and take to the seas.  

The other drawcard of this reference is its end-of-an-era appeal, being the very last Submariner to have an aluminium bezel insert before Rolex switched to ceramic in 2010. It also delivers a more understated and refined case while more contemporary counterparts have been beefed up. A true connoisseur's choice, this one ticks all the boxes. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for €6,500

If ‘spider’ dials and ‘ghost’ bezels are more your thing, then we need to go a little further back in time to this reference 5513 from 1984. We’re looking at a watch with so much character, it tells a story before you’ve even had a chance to pick it up. 

The 5513 is the quintessential Submariner in many respects, with its dateless dial and simple ‘two-line’ layout. It was also in production for over 25 years and ranks among the longest continually produced references in Rolex’s celebrated history. With so much time in the catalogue, it makes sense that a number of small incremental changes were introduced, which included a switch from a matte black dial, to a gloss finish in the mid ‘80s. Thanks to a manufacturing defect, the top layer of lacquer on a number of these early gloss dial examples cracked over time, leaving a ‘spidering’ effect. When you combine that with a UV-faded ‘ghost’ bezel and patinated hands and hour markers, it's a home run for Submariner fans.

This watch really typifies why vintage watches attract such a keen following. It has served 40 years as a reliable companion to its custodians and acquired plenty of wear and tear along the way. What it lacks in gleam, it more than makes up for in character, and we think that’s what watches are all about. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £8,250