Mathey-TissotType XX

At first glance, this Mathey-Tissot bears a striking resemblance to Breguet’s iconic Type XX. Far from a homage or replica, the company was subcontracted to manufacture and assemble watches for Breguet in the late 1950s and early 60s.

During this period, a very limited number made their way into circulation bearing the Mathey-Tissot insignia on the dial. These watches were made to the specification of the French Navy’s aviation division and were produced in several configurations, including the layout we see on this example, which incorporates a 12-hour counter in addition to the seconds register and unconventional ‘Big Eye’ oversized minute register. It is believed approximately 50 examples were manufactured, making this an extremely rare watch. Adding to its desirability is the lack of case number stamped into the back, suggesting it may be a prototype piece.

Believed to be manufactured around 1960, the watch is presented in very good condition, considering its age. The 38mm stainless steel case has marks and scratches consistent with regular wear, but the sharp and defined lug definition suggests that the watch has had very little in the way of refinishing. The rotatable bezel, which displays a 12-hour scale for tracking a second time zone, also contains scratches, and some of the paint inside the markers has lifted. The hour markers on the dial have faded to an even warm patina, and some discolouration can be observed on the hands.

The watch is powered by the manually-wound Valjoux 72 calibre with Mathey-Tissot branding. This movement is known to be extremely reliable and was also used to power the Rolex Daytona. Its condition is exemplary, and the owner advises that all components function correctly, although timekeeping has not been checked.

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