Urban JürgensenOne

Following the demand for luxury sports watches, Urban Jurgensen created the Jurgensen One collection to combine traditional hand crafts with contemporary sports styling. Combining ellipses and circles, the brand has created watches that follow current trends, but which have their own distinct character.

The GMT reference 5541 offers a practical complication for the modern traveller. Simplicity of operation was at the core of the design, the two pusher buttons allowing the main dial time to be advanced or reversed in one hour increments while the watch is on the wrist. The 24hr sub-dial at 6 o’clock always indicates home time. The case is crafted from medical grade 1.4441 steel, built from 7 individual pieces and with the same individually soldered lugs that typifies the classical collection. The screw-down crown provides water resistance to 120m.

The in-house, hand-finished, automatic P5 movement can be viewed through the sapphire case back. The deep blue dial is a work or art in itself, the chapter ring is decorated with a traditional and labour-intensive technique of grenage that produced a unique textured surface, the central area features a wave style grains d´orge, and of course the hands are crafted in the typical UJ way by hand.

The history of the Urban Jurgensen brand is composed of three eras, all typified by exemplary watchmaking in the style of the times. Urban Jurgensen was the son of Jürgen Jürgensen who, after years of study in Switzerland, introduced fine watchmaking to Denmark in the late 18th Century. Urban, following in his father’s footsteps, trained in Switzerland, and also studying under Breguet in Paris before returning to Denmark to build his reputation. The first supplier of marine chronometers to the Danish navy, Urban Jurgensen was eventually elevated to the Royal Academy of Science.

The second phase of the brand’s history comes under the direction of internationally renowned pocket watch dealer Paul Baumberger. After the last Jurgensen died in 1912 the brand fell into abeyance. It was rescued and rebuilt in the late 1970s in association with the talented Swiss-based English watchmaker Derek Pratt. They created many outstanding watches including perpetual calendars and the only wristwatch to include a detent escapement as used in marine chronometers. It was during this time that the wristwatch design language was established, using teardrop lugs and guilloché dials.

After Baumberger’s passing in 2010, the brand continued under the control of Dr. Helmut Crott, owner of the eponymous auction house and friend of Baumberger. In 2014 Urban Jurgensen won Best Men’s Watch at the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and the following year the ownership returned to Danish hands under the leadership of Søren Petersen. The years since have seen huge investment in the brand, the introduction of new models and a refining of the movements and dial designs.

This watch is offered in ‘as new’ condition with full box, travel roll and papers.

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