31st Jul 2024
Weekly Wind Down | Sales Highlights including watches from Rolex, Audemars Piguet & Omega
by Nick Bennett
2024 Rolex Daytona 'Le Mans'
Do watch releases get any more hyped than this!?
Rolex, the brand that avoids limited runs and staunchly refuses to re-use historical designs, launched a ‘Le Mans’ edition of its latest-gen Daytona with one its most recognisable dial designs from its past, and then made it available for only one year!
Rolex has always leaned hard into motorsport, but a commemoration of this kind is completely unexpected. The Le Mans 24 Hours is the world’s most recognised endurance motor race and this watch honours its legacy with some really impressive design updates. There’s a bit to unpack here so let’s run through the details.
We have to start with the dial as the sub-registers feature a design no one could have predicted on a modern Daytona. They directly reference vintage models with exotic dials, famously known as the 'Paul Newman', named after the late actor and racing driver who owned a ref. 6239. Staying on the dial side, there's a subtle change to the tachymeter bezel, too, with the 100 marker finished in red as a nod to the Le Mans centenary.
On the flip side, we have a see-through case back, which, from any other manufacturer, wouldn't bear mentioning. However, this is one of the first times we've seen Rolex showcasing the inner workings of one of its watches. This movement is worth shouting about because it’s unique to this watch. It’s been cleverly modified to allow the chronograph to time 24 hours instead of the usual 12, aligning with the race it honours.
This extra attention to detail just proves that when Rolex does special editions, it does them right, and when you consider it was only made available for 12 months, you quickly realise its significance to the brand. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £133,000
1996 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Last week, we covered another example of this reference on the Wind Down, which you can check out here. This is a really special watch as it marks one of Audemars Piguet’s earliest ventures into making highly complicated versions of the Royal Oak. And with its solid gold case and bracelet, offers a completely different take on this iconic sports watch from its origins in stainless steel.
We also praised the movement, which is based on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary 920 and manages to incorporate a perpetual calendar while keeping the watch under 9mm in height.
Technical feats aside, this particular version the ref. 25654BA is highly regarded for its dial. Departing from the traditional tapisserie pattern, its hand-hammered ‘Tuscan’ finish offers a captivating three-dimensional appearance. If this looks familiar to you in a modern context, there’s an undeniable similarity to AP’s recently released Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 'John Mayer Limited Edition'. Nothing signifies great design like on an old watch being re-interpreted in the modern day. It’s the ultimate acknowledgment of something special from the past. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £140,000
2023 Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
When Omega launched the latest iteration of its Moonwatch in 2021, it was widely praised for the upgrades to its bracelet and movement. Nestled among the new steel watches was a special edition in Omega’s proprietary ‘Moonshine’ gold.
Now, it could be argued that the Speedmaster Professional should only ever be seen in steel in order to align with its utilitarian underpinnings, but then again, why shouldn’t this rugged tool watch get to dress up from time to time?
The gold tones and dark green dial really elevate the Speedmaster’s status, and that latest generation bracelet, with its more intricate links and highly tapered shape, is perfectly suited to a precious metal finish. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £21,250
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