16th Oct 2023
Weekly Wind Down | Sales Highlights including watches from Rolex and Vacheron Constantin
by Nick Bennett
2005 Rolex Submariner
Anyone looking for vintage styling without any of the compromises associated with antiquated watches should look no further than the Rolex Submariner reference 14060. Produced between 1990 and 2010, this version of the Crown’s iconic diver echoes the look and feel of examples made decades earlier, but with modern construction and materials.
This particular example benefits from an upgraded movement, the calibre 3130, which was part of a mid-cycle refresh introduced in 1999. What makes it even more appealing is the ‘two-line’ dial which remained in place until 2007 before Rolex started certifying the movements as chronometers and printing this on the dial. A true sweet spot for the enthusiast who prefers the no-nonsense look from a time when Submariners were truly built for purpose. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £6,100.
1993 Rolex Explorer II
The Explorer II remains an undervalued member of the Rolex sports watch stable despite attracting the attention of collectors in recent years. The ‘Polar’ variant offers a refreshing alternative to the plethora of black-dialled Subs and GMT-Master IIs and is among only a few white-dialled sport watches ever offered from the Crown.
This example from the early 90s has adopted the moniker ‘Chicchi Di Mais’. Sounds exotic, right? Well, it translates to corn grains, which doesn’t quite have the same ring to it in English but it accurately describes the resemblance of the tritium hour markers which have patinated over time. We’re used to seeing aged tritium on black dials, but on the ‘Polar’, it truly stands out and we think this one’s a future classic. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £9,100
2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Ultra-Thin
With watch media awash with Patek and AP, we’re holding the torch for the ‘Holy Trinity’s’ third and somewhat underappreciated member. And when it comes to Vacheron’s Constantin’s finest, this solid gold Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin is right up there.
The Overseas model line was born in 1996, and despite a shorter history than its integrated sports watch rivals, offers the same level of finishing and technical prowess. At just 8.1mm thick, this reference houses an ultra-slim perpetual calendar movement which will display the correct date until the year 2100 without any adjustment required. Pair this with a waterproof case and plenty of robustness, and you’ve got a high horology option that works in any environment. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £73,000.