Weekly Wind Down | Sales Highlights including watches from Rolex & Patek Philippe

“Don't it always seem to go…That you don't know what you got 'til it's gone?” Joni Mitchell’s lyrics often ring true when it comes to discontinued watches - none more so than the mighty Milgauss. Up until its removal from the line up last year, Rolex’s quirky scientist’s watch was consistently overshadowed by other more popular offerings from the Crown. 

The truth is, it wasn’t exactly set up for success when it launched back in 1956. While the Submariner was associated with daring deep-sea explorers, and the GMT-Master adorned the wrists of transatlantic pilots, the Milgauss, with its antimagnetic properties, was dedicated to scientists in laboratories. 

With an image problem and slow sales, it was cut from the catalogue in 1988 before being given a second chance twenty years later with the introduction of the ref. 116400 in 2007. Rolex brought some much needed colour and flare with bright orange accents, a lightning bolt seconds hand (a nod to the past), and then later the famous ‘green glass’ - a feature exclusive to the Milgauss that Rolex famously refrained from patenting knowing that no other company would attempt it recreate it.  

Despite its chequered past and divisive looks, history will look favourably on the Milgauss, a point already evidenced by the values of vintage examples, especially ref. 1019. As for this latest and final series, they’re a testament to Rolex’s willingness to have a bit of fun and that should be celebrated.  Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £7,250

Patek Philippe delved deep into its rich history to find inspiration for the 5320G Perpetual Calendar, drawing from one of the most significant collections of vintage watches to craft a series of retro-inspired pieces. This watch is not a re-edition of a single model but rather a compilation of iconic elements. Crafted in white gold, the 5320G is like a ‘greatest hits’ release, with its straight lines, sharp angles and stepped lugs paying homage to Patek’s rich history. 

This version features a crowd-favourite salmon dial which can be viewed through a highly domed, box-shaped sapphire crystal. The dial features applied luminous Arabic numerals in blackened white gold, paired with military-style syringe hands reminiscent of the reference 1591.

Patek Philippe created a new display for the 5320G, incorporating windows for the day and month, a sub-dial for the date and moon phase, and small circular windows for the leap year and day-night indicator on either side of the moon phase.

The 5320G Perpetual Calendar highlights Patek Philippe's ability to blend historical inspiration with modern watchmaking prowess, creating a piece that is both a nod to the past and a showcase of contemporary craftsmanship. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £45,000

No, it’s not a ‘Coke’, but a new version of the GMT-Master II, regardless of the bezel colour, should always be welcomed with open arms. Rolex chose to carry over the black and grey colour scheme from the two-tone and full gold GMTs launched last year. This is a combination with undeniable appeal, but one that left us questioning whether Rolex should have opted for an all-grey bezel? 

Interestingly, this was the only stainless steel offering from Rolex in 2024, perhaps hinting at the Crown’s future direction and aspirations. For now, we can marvel at the success of the GMT-Master II and its unwavering popularity. 

Dial side, this new reference borrows the green 24-hour hand and script from the 50th anniversary ref. 116710LN which was discontinued in 2019. This ties in Rolex’s company hue and provides a nice splash of colour against the monochromatic bezel. As expected, the case size remains at 40mm and there’s the trademark gloss black dial with highly legible ‘maxi’ hands and markers. 

After a recent run of flamboyant and bejewelled releases, it’s nice to see Rolex get back to basics and build on its core product. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £14,000