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2021 Richard Mille RM67-01

From a market impact perspective, Richard Mille’s design language can’t be criticised. While looks are subjective, the brand’s utilisation of modern construction techniques and its celebration of mechanical intricacy has won it fans the world over.  But if there’s one aspersion cast towards RM, it’s that a lot of references have thick and chunky cases. 

Never one to shy away from mastering new technical challenges, Richard Mille addressed this with the launch of the RM 67-01 in 2016. This is the first time the distinctive tonneau shape was envisioned in an extra-flat form, making it one of the brand's sleekest designs. Collectors looking to experience that signature look, but with cuff-friendly ergonomics, now have a viable option. 

To help achieve these svelte dimensions, the calibre CRMA6 movement was introduced and the dial numerals were mounted on two linked titanium rails attached directly to it. Despite the thinness, the movement also features automatic winding by way of a platinum rotor.  

You may have also noticed that this version has diamonds set into the case. Rather than cover the whole watch, the precious stones sit in ribbed engravings which complement the tonneau shape, and we think this really enhances the RM67-01’s look. A refined execution from Richard Mille which carries a wider appeal.  Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £120,000

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2015 Rolex Explorer

Despite being the oldest member of Rolex’s sport watch stable, the Explorer’s design has remained relatively unchanged in over 70 years of production. Not only that, there’s only been seven model generations over that time, including a staggering 26-year-run for the ref. 1016. In the ever-changing consumer-led world that we live in, it’s almost impossible to fathom. 

And that’s exactly why the launch of the ref. 214270 in 2010 was such a big deal. For the first time in the Explorer’s history, its case size had been increased to 39mm, answering collectors’ demands for more robust dimensions. Interestingly, this model was shrouded in some controversy, receiving criticism for its short and disproportionate hands. Rolex responded by launching a ‘MK2’ update in 2016, addressing these concerns and introducing a luminous fill in the Arabic numerals to match the surrounding baton markers. 

Where does this leave these early versions of the ref. 214270 then? We all know the watch world’s affection for something a little quirky with a limited production run, and this watch fits the bill perfectly. We’re talking about the first ever Explorer in 39mm, and the one and only time those iconic tri-Arabic numerals have been crafted in solid white gold. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £4,400

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2019 Omega Speedmaster Moonphase 'Blue Side Of The Moon'

A modern interpretation of a watchmaking icon, the Speedmaster ‘Blue Side Of The Moon’ is notable for its advanced ceramic construction. The watch is crafted entirely from blue ceramic, providing not only a striking aesthetic but also enhanced durability and scratch resistance. 

The deep blue ceramic extends to the bezel, which houses a tachymeter scale—a hallmark of the Speedmaster collection. This not only adds to the watch’s cohesive look but also offers a robust alternative to traditional metal. The dial, also in matching blue, incorporates chronograph functionality as you’d expect from a ‘Speedy’, but also introduces a moonphase, which feels like a fitting complication for a watch that’s literally been on the lunar surface. 

This reference is a welcome addition to the modern Speedmaster collection, sitting alongside the other ‘Side Of The Moon’ watches. Its combination of modern materials, with classic Speedmaster design touches make it an appealing proposition. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £6,000

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