Weekly Wind Down | Sales Highlights including watches from Patek Philippe, Rolex & F.P. Journe

Patek Philippe took its Calatrava line in a new, more utilitarian direction with the release of the Pilot’s reference 5524G in 2015. Inspired by a couple of vintage references housed in the Patek Philippe Museum, its large dimensions and oversized pushers stand out as uncharacteristically bold for the brand’s traditionally dressy model line.⁠

Two years later, for its Grand Exhibition in New York, Patek Philippe introduced the time-only reference 5522A. While retaining the same design language, this model more faithfully embodies the essence of a pilot’s watch with its simple layout, highly legible dial, and stainless steel case. One could also argue that it stays true to the Calatrava name, offering a more pared-back aesthetic that is still capable of performing as a dress watch, despite its 42mm size.⁠

Positioned between the classically styled Calatravas and dedicated sports models like the Nautilus, the ref. 5522A occupies a slightly awkward place in the brand’s lineup. However, with its US-only availability, limited production, and rarely-seen steel construction (particularly in the Calatrava line), it remains an underrated release with strong potential for future collectability.⁠ Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £29,250

The ‘Serti dial’ Submariners offers a unique twist within the iconic Submariner family. They incorporate a blend of diamonds and sapphires on the dial, delivering a certain sense of neo-vintage charm that more contemporary watches with precious stones simply couldn’t pull off. 

Often considered great value, these sparkly Subs regularly sell for less than their steel counterparts, such as the "No-Date" 14060 and the classic 16610, despite their more lavish appearance. This adds to their appeal for collectors seeking something different within the range, without having to fork out for the precious stones and metal. 

In true Rolex fashion, none of the Submariner’s utility has been sacrificed in the pursuit of luxury, meaning this bejewelled diver can still be enjoyed with daily-wear flexibility. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £6,000

The FP Journe Élégante is a remarkable take on the quartz watch, representing the brand’s unique approach to battery-powered movements. I recently sat down with passionate collector and enthusiast Emily Marsden to talk about quartz watches in the luxury sphere and this model featured heavily - click here to check out the video. 

While F.P. Journe is best known for his mechanical watches, the Élégante demonstrates his ability to create something distinct even within the realm of quartz technology.

What sets the Élégante apart from typical quartz watches is its sophisticated movement, featuring an innovative motion detector. When the watch is not worn, the hands stop moving after 35 minutes, allowing the watch to enter a sleep mode that conserves energy. Despite the hands halting, the quartz movement continues to keep time internally. As soon as the watch is picked up again, the hands automatically reset to the correct time. This ingenious system can extend the battery life as long as 18 years in sleep mode. 

With a fully luminous dial and a rubber strap, this is the ultimate daily wearer from one of the most revered independent watchmakers in the game. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £22,750