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2020 Patek Philippe Nautilus

For a model line that started life in stainless steel, the Nautilus looks pretty damn good in precious metal. This version of the 5711 launched in 2015, following another rose gold reference on a leather strap that was introduced some years earlier. However, when it comes to this Genta-designed masterpiece, a bracelet is an essential part of the design.

Speaking of necessary pairings, there’s a chocolate dial here to complement the rose gold, with a gradient finish adding some extra appeal to the signature horizontal ridges. As expected with a ‘Holy Trinity’ watchmaker, case and bracelet finishing are phenomenal, with razor sharp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces. 

Apart from the appealing aesthetic and model pedigree, what makes the 5711/1R so valuable? Well, in an effort to ensure that its brand is considered much more than just a one trick pony, Patek Philippe went ahead and discontinued the 5711 a few years back, including this reference, and we all know how much the collecting world loves a watch no longer in production. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £99,000 

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2017 Rolex GMT-Master II

Not many watches can claim the same level of popularity and provenance as Rolex’s GMT-Master - even within the four walls of the Geneva giant. Almost everyone with an interest in this hobby is familiar with Rolex's travel watch. It's true to say that some references get more attention than others, and a large proportion of that is directed towards the steel models, in particular, the 'Pepsi'. But what about those that have come and gone while everyone's gaze is fixed on the latest and greatest? It’s worth doing a little history lesson on this reference 116718LN to remind ourselves of its importance in the GMT-Master legacy.

Rolex launched this watch in 2005 as a 50th anniversary tribute to its iconic pilot’s watch. Given how much collectors love an anniversary, especially a major milestone, you could say that this alone makes it a highly revered reference. However, it’s also a pioneering release from Rolex, being the first time it incorporated a ceramic ‘Cerachrom’ bezel and a ‘maxi’ case - two design cues that have gone on to define modern Rolex design. To top it all off, this trailblazing release was blessed with a lacquered green dial which, when paired with the yellow gold case and bracelet, makes for one of the most visually impressive watches we’ve seen from The Crown. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £26,502

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2014 Panerai Luminor Base Limited Edition

Panerai is one of those rare brands where its most affordable watches happen to be among the best. With a history of building dependable tool watches for Italy’s navy ‘frogmen’, simplicity is built into the design DNA. While current owners Richemont, who acquired the brand in the late ‘90s, have constantly introduced new, and increasingly complicated references, there’s something undeniably charming about the simple time-only offerings from Panerai. 

One such example is this Luminor Base from 2011. It’s a limited edition boutique-only release that has been given the vintage treatment, with ecru-coloured lume. It’s based on the robust 44mm cushion-shaped Luminor case with Panerai’s trademark crown protector. The dial is simple yet highly legible, with just an hour and a minute hand complemented by large Arabic numerals at 3,6, 9 and 12 o’clock. 

With recent watch trends favouring smaller case sizes, there’s never been a better time to pick up something from this instantly recognisable Italian powerhouse. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £1,850

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