28th May 2024
Weekly Wind Down | Sales Highlights including watches from Omega, A. Lange & Söhne & Rolex
by Nick Bennett
2023 Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 'Ed White'
With the sheer number of Speedmasters currently available, Omega could be accused of over-capitalising on its famous chronograph. There’s the Snoopy limited editions, the Dark Side of the Moon references, the ‘57 and the Two-Counter collections, amongst others. However, one thing the brand deserves high praise for is its decision to start producing the calibre 321 again.
This manually-wound chronograph is a legend amongst watch aficionados and powered the Speedmaster during its glory years. Most famously, it was used in the references worn on the moon. Featuring a monobloc column wheel setup, it’s also considered more reliable and aesthetically pleasing than its more recent cam-actuated counterparts.
It’s refreshing to see a big Swiss watch brand listening to its fans, who have been singing the 321’s praises for years and calling for its revival. This is no slap-dash recreation, either. Omega worked in complete secrecy with a team of expert watchmakers, researchers, developers, and historians to honour this chronograph’s legacy and used a tomography digital scanning method to ensure a perfect emulation.
The new 321 is being reserved for a select few models and Omega says each movement is being assembled by a single watchmaker in a special workshop. This particular reference has been labelled the ‘Ed White’ thanks to its resemblance to the ref. 105.003, which the American astronaut wore on the first spacewalk in 1965. The case measures 39.7mm in diameter and is based on the design language of “pre-moon” examples from the 1960s. One for the true Omega heads. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for €11,600
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2022 A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus
Following its revival in the ‘90s, A. Lange & Söhne has carved out a reputation for making some of the finest serially produced watches in the world. Hailing from the proud watchmaking town of Glashutte, the brand’s distinctly German designs have given it a unique character and an instantly recognisable style.
There was, however, one glaring omission from the catalogue - a dedicated sports watch. This was addressed with the launch of the Odysseus in 2019. This more robust model combines Lange’s Germanic styling with the robustness of a waterproof sports watch. The Odysseus was initially offered in steel, and then in 2021, Lange debuted this version in white gold.
The watch features the brand’s signature outsize date display and a day-of-the-week indicator which can be conveniently adjusted through quick-set pushers that sit flush with the case flank. Lange’s approach to design is clearly evident on the dial with large apertures and distinctive hands.
This may be a sports watch by definition, but the movement decoration is anything but utilitarian. The calibre L155.1 is elaborately finished and features free-hand engraving on the balance cock - a brand signature. With the Odysseus now a dedicated part of the brand's line up, Lange has all bases covered. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £29,750
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2023 Rolex Explorer 40
For the first time in its history, the Rolex Explorer is now available in two different sizes at the same time. As if watch addicts needed even more variety, we’ve now got two sizes to consider and even more choice paralysis.
When the Explorer reverted back to its classical 36mm size in 2021 after a decade in more bloated proportions, we all thought it was the end of the road for the larger version. Well, just two years later, it’s back! - this time in 40mm. While this creates a lot of debate amongst hardcore fans, the good thing is Rolex is keeping the 36mm version alive. Whether you’re a purist and favour the smaller dimensions, or you prefer some more wrist presence, that tri-Arabic design remains a timeless classic. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £6,477
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