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2023 Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton

Traditionally celebrated for its aesthetics, Cartier has built a reputation as a design-led company, known for its elegant and timeless creations. The Santos-Dumont collection, in particular, has long embodied this design-first philosophy, with its distinctive square case and exposed screws. However, the Skeleton version of this watch shifts the focus toward Cartier’s technical prowess while maintaining its hallmark elegance.

At the heart of this model is the hand-wound Caliber 9611 MC, which showcases Cartier’s expertise in movement design. The open-worked skeleton structure allows a full view of the intricate mechanics, transforming the dial into a visual spectacle. The rotor is intricately designed to feature a miniature model of Santos-Dumont’s famous La Demoiselle plane. This tribute to the pioneering aviator adds historical significance and a unique aesthetic detail to the watch.

The balance between visual artistry and technical innovation makes the Santos-Dumont Skeleton stand out. It is a striking example of how Cartier can evolve from a purely design-driven brand to one that also showcases its horological expertise. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £17,751

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2021 F.P. Journe Élégante Titanium

The FP Journe Élégante is a remarkable take on the quartz watch, representing the brand’s unique approach to battery-powered movements. While FP Journe is best known for its mechanical timepieces, the Élégante demonstrates its ability to create something distinct even within the realm of quartz technology.

What sets the Élégante apart from typical quartz watches is its sophisticated movement, featuring an innovative motion detector. When the watch is not worn, the hands stop moving after 35 minutes, allowing the watch to enter a sleep mode that conserves energy. Despite the hands halting, the quartz movement continues to keep time internally. As soon as the watch is picked up again, the hands automatically reset to the correct time. This ingenious system can extend the battery life as long as 18 years in sleep mode. 

With a fully luminous dial and a rubber strap, this is the ultimate daily wearer from one of the most revered independent watchmakers in the game. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £25,500

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1999 Patek Philippe Aquanaut

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5066A-001, launched shortly after the original Aquanaut in 1997, represents the early evolution of this now-iconic collection. Drawing inspiration from the Nautilus, the Aquanaut was designed with a sportier, more casual look, appealing to a younger audience while maintaining the same sophisticated aesthetic.

One of the defining features of the 5066A-001 is its sapphire case back, a notable upgrade from earlier models. This transparent back allows the wearer to admire the self-winding calibre 330 SC inside, an impressively finished movement that reflects Patek Philippe’s meticulous attention to detail. On the dial side, there’s large Arabic numerals and tritium-filled markers that have aged to a warm characterful tone on this 1999 example. The black "tropical" rubber strap, another signature element of the Aquanaut, contrasts sharply with the brushed stainless steel case, offering both comfort and durability. 

With its modest 36mm dimensions, the Aquanaut 5066A-001 bridges the gap between sport and elegance, making it a versatile crossover option from the ‘Holy Trinity’ watchmaker. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £25,000

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