Weekly Wind Down | Sales Highlights including watches from Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne & Patek Philippe

Under the leadership of new CEO Ilaria Resta, Audemars Piguet is harnessing its adventurous spirit, introducing a plethora of new models, materials and finishes. Just in the last few weeks we’ve seen the launch of the [RE]Master02, a watch described as “a tribute to brutalism”. This audacious release is a remake of a 60’s reference and combines an asymmetrical case with AP’s newly developed ‘sand gold’ alloy. Also new is a series of Mini Royal Oaks featuring jeweller Carolina Bucci’s signature frosted gold finish. 

Daring moves should be celebrated in the traditional and slow-moving world of watches. The controversial releases today become the industry-shaping watches of tomorrow and AP’s history is testament to that.  The original ‘Jumbo’ Royal Oak was launched as an oversized angular sports watch amongst a sea of traditionally-styled offerings, and despite its steel construction, was priced in line with precious metal alternatives. After being met with slow sales in the early days, it’s no exaggeration to say that the Royal Oak has become a phenomenon, even crossing over into mainstream culture. 

Despite being offered in a range of sizes, metals and complications over the years, AP has thankfully stood by those original specifications and offers contemporary examples of the Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra Thin. This is the purists' choice and a tribute to the trailblazing attitude of Audemars Piguet who took a chance on Gerald Genta’s design back in 1972. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £49,250

Speaking of daring design and interesting finishes, A. Lange & Söhne introduced some sparkle to its typically austere Saxonia line with the introduction of this Gold Flux reference in 2018. The  watch features a deep blue dial with a bright and shimmering finish.  

What makes it so special? The material looks similar to aventurine and is based on a mixture of silica and copper oxide which is heated and melted together. It’s the type of finish that creates an immediate curiosity on how it’s made. It’s believed this finish dates back to the 17th century and is incredibly labour-intensive and tough to machine.  

Patience and timing are paramount here, as the mixture must be cooled slowly to achieve the right crystallisation before the glass hardens. If cooled too quickly, the desired effect is lost. Looking at this watch as the light hits the dial makes you realise that this arduous production process is worth the effort. The results deliver plenty of ethereal appeal with the crystallised effect emulating the look of a starry night sky.  

Being mesmerised by this watch is not confined to the dial side. Turning it over reveals the elaborately decorated L093.1 manually-wound movement, which includes intricate free-hand engraving on the balance cock - a signature of A. Lange & Söhne.  Recently sold on Watch Collecting for HK$151,500 

Patek Philippe delved deep into its rich history to find inspiration for the 5320G Perpetual Calendar, drawing from one of the most significant collections of vintage watches to craft a series of retro-inspired pieces. This watch is not a re-edition of a single model but rather a compilation of iconic elements. Crafted in white gold, the 5320G is like a ‘greatest hits’ release, with its straight lines, sharp angles and stepped lugs and paying homage to Patek’s rich history. 

Its cream-lacquered dial evokes the patina seen on vintage watches, complemented by a highly domed, box-shaped sapphire crystal. The dial features applied luminous Arabic numerals in blackened white gold, paired with military-style syringe hands reminiscent of the reference 1591. Patek Philippe created a new display for the 5320G, incorporating windows for the day and month, a sub-dial for the date and moon phase, and small circular windows for the leap year and day-night indicator on either side of the moon phase.

The 5320G Perpetual Calendar highlights Patek Philippe's ability to blend historical inspiration with modern watchmaking prowess, creating a piece that is both a nod to the past and a showcase of contemporary craftsmanship. Recently sold on Watch Collecting for £37,750