Watch Collecting Buyer’s Guide - £10,000-£20,000

When it comes to buying watches, this is a price bracket best described as a gateway drug. It’s a dangerous and exciting place to hunt, and once you enter this realm, there’s no turning back. Before you realise what’s happened, you’ll be referring to £20,000 watches as ‘good value’. In this world, steel turns to gold, and simple time-only pieces make way for increasingly complex calendars and chronographs. There might even be some hand finishing in the mix, too. The pre-owned market is littered with great options, so why buy new? We’ve highlighted some of our favourites from watches recently sold on the platform. 

Amidst the hype of Patek Philippe’s Nautilus and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, the third member of Switzerland’s ‘Holy Trinity’ has been left on the sidelines. Like the new kid at school eating lunch at an empty table, Vacheron Constantin has been cast aside as buyers with tunnel vision get swept up in the hot brands of the moment.  For astute collectors, this means relative bargains are available in Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas collection. 

Trading for a significant discount under retail, this versatile sports watch offers impressive hand finishing and a Geneva-sealed movement, all from one of Switzerland's most respected brands. What’s not to like? And with Brad Pitt recently spotted wearing a vintage ‘222’ courtside at Wimbledon,  it feels like Vacheron Constantin is finally getting the attention it deserves. It begs the question - how long will they remain undervalued?  Recently sold at Watch Collecting for £16,350. 

The Yacht-Master range is a really appealing offering from Rolex but has faced a bit of an uphill battle since it launched in 1992. Through no fault of its own, this luxurious sports watch has struggled to compete with other comparable models in the catalogue. Can you imagine being grouped with the Submariner,  GMT-Master II and Daytona? Tough gig! 

Thanks to this, it’s one of the few undervalued offerings from the Geneva Giant on the pre-owned market. The collection has been through many iterations and styling updates over the last 30 years, but when the Yacht-Master 42 launched in 2019, it felt like Rolex got things just right. Taking all the best bits from predecessors like the ceramic bezel and Oysterflex strap, the ‘42’ benefits from a slightly larger and more attention-grabbing solid gold case. Why do we like this one so much? It’s an appealing contemporary Rolex sports watch in solid gold, with all the latest tech and it’s priced right. Recently sold at Watch Collecting for £18,750. 

Fancy a bit of gold, but not quite ready to go all out? How about two-tone? Like the contrasting nature of its construction, steel and gold watches tend to divide opinions among collectors. For some, it’s a match, for others a clash. Nevertheless, steel and gold watches represent great value in the pre-owned market. 

Take this latest rendition of Rolex’s GMT-Master II for example. Launched just a few months ago, it re-introduces yellow gold to the range for the first time in years. Add to that the new black and grey bi-colour bezel and this watch will leave even the most ardent anti-two-toners a little weak at the knees. A great option for anyone looking for Rolex’s latest and greatest without the eye-watering premiums on all-steel alternatives. Recently sold at Watch Collecting for £15,400. 

After three sports watch recommendations, it’s time to change tack and explore something a little dressier. And what better way to introduce some timeless class than with a Patek Philippe Calatrava? Dress watches have experienced a renaissance recently after spending years in the shadows of more sporty counterparts, and we’re all for it! 

Scraping in just under budget is this latest generation Calatrava ref. 6119G in white gold. Sized for more contemporary tastes at 39mm, this handsome offering from Switzerland’s premier watchmaker retains all of the line’s enduring features. The ‘Clous de Paris’ bezel and vertically brushed charcoal dial offers an appealing mix of modernity and tradition. We couldn’t round this out without mentioning the meticulously finished manually-wound movement on display through the sapphire crystal. Recently sold at Watch Collecting for £19,900. 

It’s time to spice things up a bit for the collector seeking something out of the ordinary. Founded in 2010 by Belgian industrial designer Benoit Mintiens, Ressence takes watchmaking to a whole new level. With its futuristic design and innovative technology, it's a true head-turner. 

The Type 5 features a mesmerizing oil-filled dial that gives the illusion the hands are floating effortlessly around. It's like wearing a piece of art on your wrist! Not to mention, this technically impressive watch is waterproof and features a traditional rotating dive bezel. Perfect for a spontaneous underwater adventure. Recently Sold on Watch Collecting for £12,750.